The only thing worse than a long flight is a long flight with a long layover.

The layover, as a concept, works against everything that travel is supposed to be. When you have long ago left point A and have miles to go to point B, the last thing anyone wants is 12 hours in an airport.

But it happens. And anyone who has been through it will tell you: If it happens to you, may it happen at Changi International. The Singapore airport, which handles more than 4,000 scheduled flights weekly and is a major gateway to Asia, sees its fair share of commuters: an estimated 32 million in 2005.

But despite the havoc those kinds of numbers involve, the airport picked up another 23 awards for best airport from a host of international publications last year.

Like the rest of Singapore, Changi is immaculate.

Tourists, who have heard of the high fines and stiff punishments that can accompany the smallest of offences here, are quick to advise their fellow travellers.

As a result, the airport is litter-free and there is a striking absence of gum-chewing jaws, the latter the result of rumours that doing so will get you arrested (in fact, it is only the importing of large quantities or attempted sale of gum that will get you into trouble).

But what truly sets the airport apart is its attitude. The entire experience feels like a visit to a four-star hotel and you are the pampered guest.

Sure, there is the standard airport fare: more than 100 shops and 60 food and beverage outlets in its two terminals.

And while duty-free shopping is nothing new to a airports, here the shopping comes with a guarantee that you aren`t being ripped off.

A 30-day money-back guarantee on purchases promises that prices in the airport are as low as or lower than downtown retail outlets or they`ll refund double the price difference.

That alone is progressive for an airport, but Changi goes way beyond good shopping.

Think massaging chair and foot machines. And then think free.

After an almost 19-hour flight to Singapore from Newark International, email junkies like myself may cry at the sight of more than 200 Internet kiosks with no place to slide a credit card or insert a bill. They, too, are all free.

And no teen could be blamed for fainting dead away at the sight of about a half-dozen Xbox terminals, chock full of games and available 24 hours a day with nowhere to drop a quarter.

Time to catch a movie? Head up to the small theatre on the second floor. No popcorn, but relatively recent flicks play at designated times in a theatre-style setting.

Afraid you`re missing something on TV? Grab a seat in the Skyplex entertainment centre and choose between live satellite sports, news, soaps or the latest prime time shows. My husband and I giggled happily for the better part of an hour as he watched a soccer match and I got caught up on The Bold and the Beautiful.

Come on, you say. You`re trapped inside a concrete building. What of sunshine and flowers? Well, nature lovers, they`ve thought of you, too. Lavish indoor gardens feature orchids, ferns, sunflowers, cactus and koi ponds.

For parents, there is a children`s play area where little ones can get rid of their excess energy before re-boarding the plane.

And if after a long flight all you crave is a shower and a drink, airport lounges offer you day passes, where a few dollars will buy you as much or as little as you need.

You can even go to the gym — attire will be provided — and work out those leg cramps before returning to your economy class seat. The base price of about $26.80 Singapore ($19 Cdn.) drops to just over $8 Singapore ($5 Cdn.) if you hold a Singapore Airlines boarding pass.

But my absolute favourite thing about the Singapore Airport is that it encourages transit passengers to get out and see the city. Whoever came up with the idea of offering in-transit guests free city tours should have a bronze statue erected in airports around the world.

Hosted by the Singapore Tourism Board, Singapore Airlines and the Changi Airport, the two-hour tours require participants to have a layover time of at least five hours.

A special arrangement is made with customs officials in which you turn your passport over to the guide while you step into 27C weather and board an air-conditioned bus for the start of one of three customized tours.

The colonial tour (my favourite) includes a traditional bumboat ride along the Singapore River. Take in amazing views of the city`s mascot Merlion (mermaid and lion) statue and the famous Raffles hotel.

Alternatively, the cultural tour introduces you to a Chinatown and little India that make Toronto`s look minute. An English-speaking guide provides you with history and information as you tour and welcomes you to participate or take a nap on the bus if you`d like.

If you`re nervous about leaving the airport (which you shouldn`t be) or simply aren`t in Changi for long enough to do the tour, brochures in the airport advise you of activities you can do and maps tell you exactly how long it will take you to walk to your in-airport activity of choice.

There is a medical clinic, a pharmacy, a business centre and a transit hotel that you can book in six-hour blocks. There is even a place to leave your bags so they don`t hold you back from shopping or stepping out in the city.

The airport seems to have everything including a fully stocked 7-Eleven, though I didn`t notice a Slurpee machine.

When the time comes to leave Changi, my carry-ons have increased significantly and a strange feeling has taken hold. I realize I`m relaxed.

On the way back to Toronto, `better` flight connections mean very little time in Changi en route to Newark. Then the blizzard of 2006 strands us in New Jersey overnight.

And let me tell you: There`s nothing like being trapped in an airport in New Jersey, to make you long for Singapore. For more information and ideas visit http://www.visitsingapore.com